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The Definitive Guide to Shirt Sizing and Measuring
Learn how to measure collar size, sleeve length and shirt fit, with expert guidance from Harvie & Hudson.
Do the words “collar size” bring waves of recognition or heavy pangs of bewilderment? Of course, they are about shirts, but do you know how to measure your collar size correctly? What about sleeve length? This seems obvious enough, but where exactly should you measure from and to?
Fear not. Even if these are terms you recognise but are not completely sure about, you are not alone. Every year, countless men across Britain end up buying the wrong shirt size, often because of the number of options behind a seemingly simple garment.
So here, to redress the balance, is the definitive guide to shirt sizing, covering collar size, sleeve length, fit and how to choose the right shirt for the occasion.
Learn how to measure correctly
Find the right shirt sleeve
Choose classic or slim fit
Collar Size: Why It Matters
Shirt sizing options change between retailers. Some use simple small, medium or large options, while more traditional shirt makers use collar size as the key measurement. The latter is more accurate for fitting and is especially common for formal shirts.
It is perfectly fine to wear a more relaxed, open-collar shirt for casual wear, but for work, formal occasions and especially when a tie is involved, collar size is crucial. A collar should feel secure without feeling tight, allowing enough room for comfort and movement.
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How to Measure Collar Size
Use a flexible tape measure and measure around the base of the neck, where the collar would naturally sit.
Pull the tape so it is firm against the neck, but not so tight that it feels restrictive.
Add around half an inch to allow for comfort and natural movement.
If measuring an existing shirt, measure from the centre of the collar button to the middle of the buttonhole.
Typically, collar measurements range between 14 and 19 inches, although this can vary depending on the individual. The number usually increases in half-inch increments and corresponds with the shirt collar size.
Sleeve Length: How to Measure Correctly
Collar size is not the only measurement that matters for those serious about their shirts. One of the most common questions is how to measure sleeve length. Manufacturers often work from a chart where each collar size corresponds to an expected body size, but arm lengths vary from person to person.
This is why high-quality shirt makers often provide a selection of sleeve lengths for each collar size. A sleeve that is too short can sit awkwardly beneath a jacket, while a sleeve that is too long may bunch at the cuff.
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How to Measure Sleeve Length
Stand naturally with your arms relaxed by your side. Avoid standing with your arms completely straight.
Keep the arm slightly bent, as if resting your thumb or finger in a trouser pocket.
Start measuring from the backbone at the nape of the neck, then run the tape over the shoulder and down the arm.
Measure to just below the wrist bone, where the cuff should sit comfortably.
You can also measure from a well-fitting shirt. Lay the shirt flat, start from the centre of the yoke beneath the collar, and measure straight down the sleeve to the end of the cuff. Usually, the result will be between 32 and 36 inches, although this may vary.
Style note: Sleeve length is especially important when wearing double cuff shirts with cufflinks, or when styling shirts beneath suits and jackets.
Classic Fit vs Slim Fit Shirts
Once you understand your measurements, the next step is choosing the right fit. At Harvie & Hudson, our classic fit shirts and slim fit shirts offer different silhouettes depending on your preference and how you intend to wear the shirt.
Classic Fit Shirts
Classic fit shirts offer a more traditional shape with room through the body. They are ideal for those who prefer comfort, ease of movement and a timeless profile.
Slim Fit Shirts
Slim fit shirts sit closer through the body for a sharper, more contemporary silhouette. They work well beneath tailored suits and jackets.
How Should a Shirt Fit?
A well-fitting shirt should feel comfortable while maintaining a clean shape. The collar should fasten without strain, the shoulders should align with your natural shoulder point, and the sleeves should reach the wrist without excess fabric.
Collar
The collar should feel secure but not tight. This is especially important if you regularly wear ties for business or formal occasions.
Shoulders
The shoulder seam should sit where your shoulder naturally ends. If the seam drops too far down the arm, the shirt may look too large.
Sleeves
Sleeves should allow movement without pulling. For formalwear, consider how the shirt will sit beneath a jacket or suit sleeve.
Body
The shirt should sit neatly through the chest and waist without pulling at the buttons. Choose classic fit if you prefer more room, or slim fit if you prefer a closer silhouette.
Choosing the Right Shirt for the Occasion
Different occasions call for different shirts. Once you know your size, you can choose a style that suits how and where you plan to wear it.
Business Shirts
Business shirts offer a reliable foundation for professional dressing. White, blue and subtle patterned shirts are versatile choices.
Evening Shirts
Evening shirts are designed for formal events and black tie occasions, pairing naturally with dinner suits, bow ties and dress studs.
Smart Casual Shirts
Smart casual shirts work well with chinos, jackets and knitwear for a relaxed but refined look.
Essential Shirts
Essential shirts provide dependable wardrobe staples, from crisp white shirts to versatile blue styles.
Get Fitted
With sleeve and collar measurements, it should be easier to find an off-the-peg shirt that sits correctly. There should be no need to make do with ill-fitting shirts with sleeves that hang too low or finish too short.
Similarly, the collar should not hang loosely or feel restrictive. It should sit in a comfortable, flattering position, allowing the shirt to look sharp whether worn open-necked, with a tie, or beneath tailoring.
FAQs: Shirt Sizing and Measuring
How do you measure collar size?
Measure around the base of the neck where the collar naturally sits. Keep the tape firm but comfortable, then add around half an inch for movement.
How do you measure sleeve length for a shirt?
Measure from the nape of the neck, across the shoulder and down the arm to just below the wrist bone, keeping the arm slightly bent.
What is the difference between classic fit and slim fit?
Classic fit shirts offer more room through the body, while slim fit shirts sit closer for a sharper, more modern silhouette.
Should shirt cuffs show under a jacket?
Yes, a small amount of shirt cuff should usually show beneath a jacket sleeve. This gives a clean and balanced formal appearance.
What shirt size should I choose if I am between sizes?
If you are between sizes, consider how you prefer your shirts to fit. Choose the larger size for comfort, or compare both measurements against our size guide before ordering.
Further Reading
Explore more Harvie & Hudson guides to help choose, style and care for your shirts.
